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DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol) is a skin care ingredient enthusiastically touted by many skin care vendors. One of the reasons for its popularity is that it is one of the very few agents (perhaps even the only one) shown to produce some skin tightening and modestly reduce facial sag. (See our article on DMAE).
However, a 2007 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology raised safety concerns regarding topical DMAE. Dr. Morissette and colleagues, from the University of Quebec, studied the effect of DMAE in human skin cell cultures and rabbit skin.
The researchers found that adding DMAE to the cultures of fibroblasts (key type of skin cells) produced the effect known as vacuolization. Vacuolization is often observed in cells after various types of damage as cells try to encapsulate and excrete foreign agents and/or their own damaged components. Hence the researches concluded that the vacuolization induced by DMAE was suggestive of cell damage. They also observed that DMAE impaired the ability of fibroblasts to divide. Notably, the above adverse effects reversed after DMAE had been washed out of the culture following a short-term exposure. (Long-term exposure has not been studied.)
The application of 3% DMAE to the skin of rabbit ear resulted in the thickening of epidermis and the so-called perinuclear swelling (swelling of the area around the nucleus) in epidermal cells. This effect was an indirect indication (albeit not a proof) of vacuolization and cell damage.
What do these results mean for the common use of DMAE in skin care? Unfortunately, this is not an easy question to answer. Here are just some reasons why:
Dr. Morissette's study is noteworthy but is difficult to extrapolate to typical cosmetic use of DMAE. Ideally, one should conduct a human clinical trial where the subjects are treated for at least several weeks with topical DMAE formulas with the range of concentrations and pH levels typical in skin care products. (The control group would be treated with inactive vehicle only.) After that, all the skin layers should be carefully measured and analyzed.
What to do until such data is available? To be on the safe side, you could just wait and refrain from using topical DMAE. If you do not want to wait, it may be prudent not to exceed the strength of 1% of DMAE and watch out for any adverse effects, such as skin irritation.
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